'Miracle' Cats of Cyprus

A Pafos cat before its kingdom. (Taken by the author)

Cats have become part of the façade here in Pafos, laying on sidewalks, perching on windowsills, and resting atop city walls. Since my arrival, they have been one of the most noticeable characteristics of the streets – along with unfinished roads and constant construction. They seem to go generally unnoticed by locals, who pass them by as if they are just a part of the scenery. They have been acknowledged by a young architect involved in the European Capital of Culture event - in a nearby square, a “cat hotel” has been constructed for the local cats to rest in the shade of the trees. They are feral cats, seemingly owned by no one in particular, yet an important and highly visible marker of Cyprus. The ancestors of these cats are said to have arrived to Cypus back in the fourth century. 

So, why are there so many cats on this island? It is said that St. Helena, mother of Constantine and the Greek saint who is believed to have brought pieces of the cross on which Jesus was crucified to Cyprus, arrived in around 327 AD to an area of Southern Cyprus which is now known as the Cape of Cats. She found the area to be riddled with poisonous snakes, and that the local people were fairly helpless against them. Her response to this dismal state was to bring a shipload of cats to the island, a plan which two British cat-owners living in Pafos whom I spoke with described as having “just got[ten] out of hand”. Indeed, they appear to be correct, as there are thousands of cats in Pafos and only a few services dedicated to population control and care of the cats. The area where St. Helena supposedly landed is now home to St. Nicolas of the Cats Monastery in the Akrotiri Peninsula, which is today a British Overseas Territory. A Venetian named Fra Francesco Suriano visited the area in August of 1848, in which he described the “miracle of the cats in Cyprus” (see below), how the monks fed the cats, and how the cats served an important purpose in Southern Cyprus.

“The Miracle of Cats in Cyprus”. An excerpt from Excerpta Cypria, 1908, by Claude Deleval Cobham

 Interestingly, many of the cats I have spotted in Pafos reside near the Agios Theodoros Cathedral, which caused me to consider whether the tradition of churches feeding stray cats has continued. I noticed on our first few nights that about 20 cats congregate in the alley behind the cathedral, eating food scraps and lazing in the shade.  

 Suspicious cats at the Agios Theodoras Cathedral, Pafos. (Taken by the author)

Curious kitty. (Taken by the author)

However, they don’t appear to be considered a “miracle” to the island any longer. The lack of funding, particularly after the financial crisis in 2013, has resulted in budgets cuts which were dedicated to spaying and neutering, and has limited the people’s ability to feed and care for the cats. A local animal shelter volunteer I spoke with said that the organization she works with are responsible for the feeding and/or caring of approximately 500 cats, some of which reside there temporarily, others which come and go. She expressed a need for more volunteers, a sentiment which has been reiterated by other cat lovers in the area. For many, the cats have become a burden, and some people have reportedly resorted to poisoning them as a form of ‘pest control’.

For visitors, the cats are a unique addition to one’s time in Cyprus. Their ancestors were brought here by an important historical figure, and they are therefore a small, unexpected facet of the narrative of the nation. This lives on in their lingering and persistent presence. The contemporary reality of those who live here, however, is that without funding and community involvement their overpopulation will continue being a problem, as they also do not want stray cats suffering to survive in their streets. Efforts to combat this issue are being made, but human and economic resources are stretched thin. Perhaps tourists should look beyond the adorability of these cats, and consider ways in which they can support existing ethical Cypriot efforts to reduce the suffering of cats while preventing further population growth.

These little ones have a tough life ahead of them on the streets of Pafos. (Taken by the author)